Newport News Update

So my clothes arrived. What a disappointment. First, I hate it when I order something and I receive not only my garments but 50,000 clearance catalogs and a bunch of other crap that killed a dozen trees to generate and go straight into the garbage. That being said, the items arrived quickly, were packed nicely in sealed plastic, with tissue paper, cardboard and clips to keep everything nice and wrinkle-free. I ordered this white shirt. It is a cotton knit, but looks and feels more like cotton poplin. You only realize the knit in how it stretches. The fabric was not see-through, a problem I encounter with most white shirts. The sleeves were a tad long, but to be expected with a non-petite size on me. The opening on the side for the sash to go through (wrap style) was far larger than the sash itself, leaving much skin showing (tacky). I was confused by the sash, it seemed too long to tie in back, too short to tie in front, and uneven so unable to tie on the side like most wrap shirts. Then the problem I encounter with most wrap styles – not enough fabric in the front. Would be fine if this top was part of a stripper’s costume, but not work appropriate. I even went up a size to allow for the bust, but ended up with poor results. If it weren’t for the unusually large opening on the side showing off your midsection to the entire world, I would say this shirt would be a good choice for one who is lean, small busted and long in the torso. The fabric and construction was surprisingly decent and the front rouching was flattering, not gaudy. The next item was a stretch poplin shirt in black (shown in red online). It too is a wrap style, but attached on the side so no wrap issues. I find that a faux wrap style works better with my bustline, and the side rouching is usually flattering, trimming my waistline. This one did nothing for me. The right sleeve was longer and narrower than the right, almost to the point that I could not fit it on my arm. The hem of the shirt ended just a hair below my waistband of my pants – an unflattering length for most women and surprising considering I am petite and this shirt is not. Though I am between sizes and ordered a size up, the shirt was tight through the midsection and my chest was popping out of the neckline. The hem on the neckline is a foldover style that doesn’t have a hem visible. Good for this type of top, unfortunately the foldover part was not long enough and not attached correctly so it was bubbling up around the neckline. Looked terribly cheap. Finally, the swing coat. Cotton velvet, bracelet length sleeves, I thought this would be adorable with cocktail and sheath dresses, or even a white ribbed tank and jeans for a night out with the girls. Again, highly disappointed. The velvet is the cheap type that collects lint as soon as it is removed from the wrapper. The buttonholes were not large enough for the buttons, to the point I practically tore the jacket trying to open it to try on. The shape was… lacking. No definition in the shoulders or the body, leaving the piece a bit cockeyed on the body. So, pretty much what I expected. A disappointing result from Newport News, and a confirmation that I should still be tossing out their catalogs as soon as they arrive.

When Have Steve Maddens Become High-End?

Steve Madden, Nine West, and Bakers. These brands helped me achieve "Trendy Status" through college, and assisted in building what I believed to be an “adult” shoe wardrobe right out of school. I knew I could go to these stores and find variations of what was on the runway, made a bit younger-looking, and a heck of a lot cheaper. I remember working at a mall in Maryland that had a Nine West downstairs from my store. I was a visual merchandiser, I had to travel with a supervisor to stores in the region. I needed to look good. The manager of Nine West gave me 10% off and I bought three pairs of shoes – a great pair of tall black boots, some leopard print pony-hair platforms and gold strappy heels. The total came to a hair above $125 for all three and I thought I was going to have a coronary for spending so much on shoes all at once. Now this was 1999, but prices have not skyrocketed that much. My 30th birthday. My sister planned a night out in the city for me and my closest friends. I went shopping and got a pair of fabulous designer jeans, a cool sparkly top, and went to Nine West to find some amazing snakeskin pumps that I wear to this day. The shoes were probably $65 at most. I had spent so much on the rest of the outfit, I knew I had to be frugal with the shoes so I walked right past the Nordstrom shoe department and headed to my local mall’s Nine West (which is right down the hall from Bakers). Today, September 2006. I am looking at Nordstrom online for a pair of round-toed black pumps to match my full skirts and black opaque tights. And I see THESE. Yes, they are fun, yes the upper and lining are both suede/leather but STILL! $150 for a pair of shoes from Steve Madden? Steven may be their high end line (I find pairs from this brand way under $50 at Off Broadway and DSW), but I believe $150 for a pair of shoes from a designer who brought me my stacked rubber-soled platform sandals of college with the giant buckles and white stitching, and the winter version of loafers with a 3” rubber platform sole to tromp through dirty snow on campus… well it just seems wrong. Very wrong. Call me a shoe snob, but I will save $150 for a pair of high-quality shoes from a high-quality designer.

Tuesday Tip - Don't Believe the Hype

This week’s Tuesday Tip is early as that I will be out of town the majority of this week. Just because it is on a mannequin or on the cover of a catalog does not mean it is stylish. I know this can be terribly confusing for those new into building a personal wardrobe. But like the news, you cannot accept everything as gospel. As there are three sides to every story, there are many views of current fashion. I received a copy of the recent Newport News catalog in the mail. I usually toss this immediately. Newport News, Chadwicks, Boston Proper, Carabella, Venus and Spiegel are all lumped in the same pile in my mind. These are catalogs that are 90% full of the ugliest crap in the world. The other 10% is good simple basics at a low price, but simple basics that I am wary of. Will the rise be more Soccer Mom than Hot Mama? What is the fabric quality? Is the leg straight from the hip down, or the knee down resulting in a tacky tapered line? Needless to say, I have learned to simplify my life by tossing these catalogs and finding my low-priced staples at Target, Old Navy, The Gap and the sale racks at Ann Taylor. Recently, I have seen items from the Newport News collection in my favorite fashion mags. This does not mean that their clothing is hip or great; it means that they sent free pieces to the editors in hops that it would fit a story and be displayed. However some of these items looked fairly cute. I was especially intrigued by a military-inspired long jacket in black velvet. I flipped through the catalog and was assaulted by many current trends gone bad, yet some decent novelty pieces along with the basics. I ordered two shirts and a jacket and will let you readers know how these items work for me once they arrive. The bad fashion was so prevalent, I felt it necessary to comment on it. 1. Just because leggings are in style does not mean you should wear them. I know, I know I have stated this before but I cannot say it enough. When I went to the Newport News website, the first picture I saw was tall leggy women in turtleneck tunic sweaters and leggings. The company is offering a free pair of leggings with every tunic sweater. Wow, free! Who can pass up free? And that sweater looks cozy and will cover one’s ass quite nicely. Who can pass on that? YOU. Please please please do NOT buy into this look as being fashionable or even flattering. Really look as these gorgeous models. Examine them in the rest of the website, the same women now in dresses, or suits. Compare the two looks. Do they look better in the dress or the tunic? Now think, if they look better and thinner and prettier in a dress than a turtleneck tunic, imagine how you will look in that sweater. Not that pretty of a picture, is it? 2. More isn’t better. This is another statement I make from time to time, but it holds true in this fall/winter season of luxe fabrics, Russian and military influences and leftover bohemian touches from summer. Even on the front cover of the catalog the model is wearing a frilly top that has the front ruffles AND the blouson sleeves with tweed pants that are not just tweed but have a black silken bow at the waist. On top of this she has chandelier earrings and long tendrils of blonde hair. A blouse that could possibly work on it’s own, a pair of pants with a bit too much detail, a pair of earrings that could look gorgeous with the right outfit, sexy hair… the whole combination is a busy, confusing and hot mess. The inside page is even more exhausting. A leather jacket with a sheer blouse with a lace scarf and a denim skirt with lace insets and a rhinestone belt. Whew! I can just imagine the lace-up leather and suede boots in two-tone that she probably has on under this skirt. Then the next page. Faux fur stole? Cute! Faux fur stole with a faux cheetah print tunic, large braided hip belt and tinted jeans with hem detail? Frightening. How about the crocheted top and matching crocheted long skirt? I personally do not want to walk around looking like a living doily. And let’s not talk about the black and white overload outfit in the center. If you have a fussy top, match it with simple trousers. This blouse with simple, classic tweed trousers, pearl studs and more simple hair would be lovely. The pants with a black turtleneck, black boots and a low sideswept ponytail could be chic and classy. The earrings with a simple crepe sheath and pumps would add flair and formality to a simple evening look. There should only be one focal point on an outfit or the viewer gets dizzy. Accent with a scarf, or a bold necklace, or a cool belt, or a patterned skirt or fun shoes. Not all of them at once. 3. Belts are not always best. IF you do not love your midsection, steer clear of wide waistbands on tunics and all these large belts. I believe men have decided that large hip belts hide our midsections. In actuality, these kind of details only draws attention to your tummy and hides any shape or wait definition you may currently have. A tall slim blonde in a calf-length unstructured jacket, leggings, tall boots and a hip belt may look cool and stylish in a new millennium Stevie Nicks sort of way, but I bet once she stands upright, removes her hand from her belt, she will look a bit disheveled and confusing. Few women can carry off the layers and ruffles of Stevie, or the belts associated with her look. If you aren’t sure, keep it simple. No one will find a woman in basic trousers and a solid sweater to be a fashion victim or tacky. You may blend into the woodwork, but with some time honing your style, investing in creative accessories that show your personality, you will look stylish instead of scary (or Stevie). 4. Consider your shape. The catalog shows a lovely vertically-striped boatneck sweater in a dark chocolate shade. Smaller braided hip belt with a buckle to compliment the sweater (and actually fits, doesn’t sling down but sits right at the hip), a fringed brocade shawl tossed over one shoulder and a long tan tweed skirt. A very pretty concept… however if you are petite, a floor-length skirt will look more like a costume than work-appropriate attire. Same with a shawl on the shoulder. This woman is probably near 6’ tall and the shawl falls past her knees. Consider your height prior to purchasing. What may work on a tall lean blonde may not work on a curvy petite, or a long-waisted 5’7” gal with hips. A knee-length skirt and a large square scarf folded on an angle and secured at the shoulder with a brooch may be a better choice than a shawl and belt. This being said, I have ordered two wrap-style cotton shirts in solid colors and a ¾ sleeved swing jacket in black velvet and hope they will look great. I just believe women should proceed with caution in stores and catalogs. That which is displayed may be harmful to your fashion health. Know your style and know your figure and dress for that first and foremost. And if you have the panache to carry off fringe and ruffles like Stevie Nicks, well I’d like to hear from you!

Winter 2006 - Wardrobe Essentials

1. A Pair of Tall Boots. If you do not own a pair now, this is the season to purchase some. Kitten heels, flats, high heels, laces, suede, pointy toe or flat, they all seem to be stylish and in stock at every store. Boots may seem like a major purchase as that most real-leather styles start around $200. The thing is, boots, if good quality, do not go out of style. If they are babied (keep them protected, stored properly, get them reheeled and resoled before each season) they will last you a very long time. My mother has a pair of boots that she purchased in 1962 and still wears (and still receives compliments on them!). Do not settle; it seems that every clothing store, shoe store and department store will have at least a couple varieties. If you find that tall boots are too tight on your calves, do check out the stores I have listed in the sidebar for fuller figured women. Many offer high-quality boots in varying calf sizes. Mainstream stores like Naturalizer and J. Crew have also realized that not every woman has a 13” calf and also now offer larger calf sizes. As for color, consider your wardrobe. I personally only own black boots as that I wear mainly black, bright colors, white and silver accessories. My friend who is blonde and prefers neutrals and pinks found a dark camel pair appropriate for her style; my coworker who has dark auburn hair and has a bit of a vintage feel to her J. Crew and Banana Republic staples recently invested in a chocolate brown leather pair with a wood stacked heel. 2. A Slimmer, Darker Jean. No, I am not telling every woman to toss her jeans and buy a pair of skin-tight black stovepipe jeans a la Kate Moss. These thin jeans do not look good on most shapes. What I am suggesting is a darker, cleaner jean. Less whiskering, bleaching and distressing, and no crazy flare, super low rise or baggy leg. These jeans are almost shaped like pants, they are straight or with a very slight boot cut, they are clean, maybe creased and they look expensive (even if they are not). Tuck them into your boots and wear with a sweater for a jaunt to the mall. Wear with sassy heels and a blouse for a night out on the town. Pair with boots and a velvet blazer for a smart Casual Friday look. Stretch is acceptable, but do not confuse stretch for allowing tight. A stylish woman will not have painted-on jeans, no matter how fabulous her figure. Tight is trendy, tailored is eternal. Stretch will help the jeans keep their shape and be more comfortable. This also helps jeans keep their dark wash. Consider letting them hang-dry to maintain the color and size. A bit of distress at the seams (or crease, if there is one) can add to the personality of the jeans, but the holes, tears, rhinestone appliqué and zipper embellishments can be left on the rack. 3. A Work Dress. I know I mentioned it before, but I have to mention it again. I have not seen dresses be so flattering, so acceptable for all situations and so plentiful in stores in a very long time. Dresses can make bumps turn into curves, boy figures into goddesses. A great dress can transcend trends and become a staple for many years to come. The shirt dress has come back, and luckily in many variations. A heavy jersey fabric will glide over curves, a stiff poplin will create curves for those who are lacking them. A style just at or above the knee will make a woman look taller, a style hitting at the calf will make a tall woman look less leggy. Wrap styles whittle a waistline, skinny belts accentuate a small waist and wide stretchy belts with leather or suede buckles define a figure. Not only shirt dresses are popular. Jumper-style dresses nod to childlike fashions of the 70’s and look great over turtlenecks and blouses. Kimono-inspired dresses hide a multitude of sins and look feminine and elegant. A-line, tent and bell-shaped styles are very modern and fun on slight figures. There is a dress (or five!) that will look great on every figure. This dress will work at work, at church, for a social occasion or a night out with the girls. Pair with boots or pumps for work or strappy heels for play. 4. Your Own personal “It” Bag. I am not telling you to go out and get a Fendi, a Marc Jacobs or a Balenciaga if your budget cannot afford it. You don’t even need to invest in a Coach, Kooba or Kate Spade; or a Kenneth Cole, DKNY or Fossil. I remember last winter my sister sported the coolest looking purse. It was a dark teal color with contrast stitching and silver hardware. She received raves from all her friends about how cool it was and such a great color. Where did she get it? Payless Shoe Source for $14.99. Point is, an “It” bag does not have to be dripping with logos or cost more than your home. So what IS and “It” bag? It’s a bag that makes a statement. It’s a bag that has as much oomph, personality and style to look amazing just sitting on the table by itself. It is a little bigger than what you may be used to, but that’s so it is noticed. Oomph and personality do not equal gaudiness. Pass on the fringe, studs, embroidery and patchwork unless you have a true designer bag. Brass or silver hardware is fine, as long as it is regulated to buckles, zippers with purpose and clasps. The bag should be big enough to hold your planner or a book or a larger water bottle, but not all three. We are not looking for carry-on luggage, but a daily handbag that can stow your essentials without overpowering your frame. For a petite woman, a bag that is 12” in length and 7” in height may be appropriate. Just realize this is not the season for a wallet on a string or the traditional crocheted Le Sak. As for fabric, leather is on all the runways, but suede is popular, canvas mixed with leather is seen often, and if you cannot afford or stomach leather, look for stylish pleather. Some washed PVC and faux croco bags look just as authentic as the real thing and hold up much better during inclement weather. Unless you are a Kate Spade devotee, it is time to give your microfiber bags a vacation. This is a season of luxe, and a square techno-fiber bag is not appropriate. As for color, almost everything is acceptable, as long as it is not pure white (ivory and winter white is acceptable), metallic (that is last season and too “bling” for this season’s looks) or a bright shade. Black, brown, camel, olive, dark red, dark purple, plum, mallard blue, mustard and charcoal are all very popular this season. I personally have invested in a dark camel leather hobo-style bag with brass hardware for my daily “It” bag, feeling that it is a nice contrast to my wardrobe of red, blue and purples and doesn’t conflict with either brown or black shoes. My mom purchased a dark red pleather bag with contrast stitching, a more traditional shape and a silver buckle holding the main flap in place. My dear friend found a fabulous large framed bag in a very dark glazed berry leather with dark silver hardware and is sporting that and a brown suede hobo with no trim but a gold-capped suede tassel from the zipper pull. All are larger than last season, more substantial and have more charm and personality than the diminutive bags or blingy giant totes of previous seasons. 5. A Great Pair of Trousers. This is the season of trousers. These are a bit more than your standard Editor pants from Express. These are pants that make an outfit. That can be worn with a simple sweater or shirt but will be an OUTFIT. Be it Audrey Hepburn or Katherine Hepburn your channel, the look is defined and a bit retro. Full legged tweed trousers with a cuff and defined waist with a feminine ruffly blouse, skinny black cropped pants that are paired with ballet flats, winter white fluid pants that stand out against a black jacket and heels, high-waisted pinstripe menswear-inspired trousers with a crisp white shirt. These pants make a statement. Consider your shape and size when you consider these type of pants. High-waisted full-legged trousers will not look best on a petite zaftig frame, and skinny cropped pants may just look a tad shrunken on a long lean figure. If you are afrais to shy from your standard flattering cut, consider a different fabric, print or color. Winter white is big this season and pops against black, brown and the dark romantic colors that are in the stores. A conservative tweed with a surprising ribbon of green, pumpkin or salmon can look fresh added to your current wardrobe of blouses and blazers. A basic black trouser updated with a tuxedo stripe will freshen up your standard white shirt and black pumps. 6. A White Shirt. Be it a standard crisp cotton button-down, a tuxedo-inspired version with oodles of ruffles, a silken one with princess sleeves and pearl buttons or a stretch poplin wrap style with French cuffs, all are hot for this season. Shirts with a bit of lycra will refrain from wrinkling through the day and will be less likely to tug at the bust and shoulders. If you are short waisted, no matter your height consider a petite version (do you find your shirts often bunch at the lower back? Try petites – Ann Talyor carries up to a 16 petite in many of their shirts). Many brands like Rebecca and Drew now offer sizes according to bust-size, preventing gaping at the buttons. White shirts do not need to be tucked in. Curved hemlines and tailored shapes are made to be worn untucked and can look elegant with trousers, jeans and skirts. Accessorize with pearls, gold chains or a beloved scarf. If the shirt has detail (ruffles, pintucks, decorative buttons) minimize the accessories and let the shirt be the focus. 7. A Wool Coat. This is not a wool jacket, this is a COAT. A jacket that is anywhere between thigh-length and calf-length. It is a stylish, elegant coat that works with jeans as well as a cocktail dress. This coat is a necessity unless you live in warmer or tropical climates (where I would recommend a trench in it's place). The cost should not be the focus this season, this season is about luxe details. Find detail in scarves, gloves, bags and shoes. Your coat should be a canvas for the rest of your look. Consider single-breasted, this is flattering on most shapes and elongates the body. Look for a more tailored shape, no matter your size a heavy coat will be more flattering if it glides against your shape instead of hiding it. Wrap styles are better for trenches and lighter-weight fabrics so look for a more simple style. To help reduce bulk, look for high-tech linings like Thinsulate that will add warmth without the padding. As for color, black and brown are safe, classic choices. Like purses, dark muted colors are neutrals this season. A camel, deep plum or ivory coat can look quite smart. Do not get too trendy with this coat; a coat should be able to last you for many years. Because of this fact, look for quality. Lower end wools and wool blends often are lint-magnets and get balled up under arms and places that are rubbed often. Places like Burlington Coat Factory and TJ Maxx often have wonderful quality (and often designer) coats at reduced prices.