January 17, 2007

Allie's Mailbag

As I have said before, I am more than happy to answer your individual questions to the best of my ability. Feel free to email me (better than leaving it in the comments) and I will try to respond in a prompt manner.

lately I have received a ton of great questions and I have tried to respond in a helpful manner. A lot of the questions could be those that other readers have, so I have decided to share many of them with you.

I have a short torso/small waist, however my bottom is larger;let’s just say I wear a 10 or medium tops and a 12 bottom. I’m having a hard time determining what looks best on me especially when it comes to sweaters. I found them too long which when worn like that only emphasizes my bottom half. Any suggestions or ideas. PS. I rarely wear shirts tucked in because I feel it draws attention to my short torso.
My sister has a short torso and is bigger on the bottom than she is on the top as well, and she always looks fabulous. She swears by twin-sets; the shell usually is a bit shorter and slimmer fitting than the cardigan so the shell shows off her waist but the cardigan provides coverage and length to elongate the torso. She also wears lots of cowl necks and v-necks; even with a camisole underneath the elongated neck gives the illusion of a longer body. she also does not wear bulky sweaters - her sweaters are no heavier than a smooth Shetland wool so one can see that her top half is small and that she does have a waistline. She wears layers for warmth. Like you she does not ever wear anything tucked in and I don't believe she owns a single button-up shirt.

Have you considered empire waists? Be them wrap style or not, the higher waistband gives the illusion of a longer torso and these styles usually float at the end instead of hugging curves. A wrap style sweater with a higher waist, with or without a layer underneath could be quite flattering - you have the v-neck, the higher waist, and the a-line from the waist that will curve with your body. Another thing is belts. The past couple of seasons have been huge for belts. A black v-neck cardigan sweater over a white tank with a skinny red patent leather belt can look amazing with pants, skirts and jeans. This will show your shape without cutting you off in the middle. Wide belts are hard to wear if you are short waisted, but skinny belts over sweaters and tops gives a retro look that is very popular now. I love this skinny belt look but as someone with NO WAIST :-( I can't wear them. I keep trying them on and keep leaving them in the closet!
Have you already written a piece about at-home eyebrow maintenance? If so, would you mind letting me know where I can look for it; if not, could you please outline the eyebrow how-tos for us sometime? Yours always look great and I can't seem to get mine looking quite right...
I wrote a bit about brows here.

I was born with weird brows - they end before the outside part of my eye, I was born with no arch, and they are patchy. I have found using a brow powder and a very short slanted brush and brush in color makes my brows look more groomed. I also have long hairs in my brows. An esthetician told me to never cut the hairs because then they stick out, look unruly and are varied in texture. Instead I use a brow gel (my current one is from e.l.f. but I have also used Maybelline and The Body Shop) and brush the hairs straight up with the gel, and then brush outward. This keeps the long hairs in place, and also disperses the brow powder so it looks more natural.
I am a stay-at-home mother of 2 little girls. I am an hour-glass figure, size 8-10, only 5' 1", with double D's. I feel that my chest gets in the way of a lot of fashions, as I don't like my clothes to be so tight that all you notice is chest. By the time the shirt/dress/sweater is large enough to comfortable fit my chest area, it is way too big in the waist, and I end up looking like a barrel.Do you have any suggestions on what type of clothes would make up a good wardrobe for me, my shape, and my lifestyle?
I can totally relate; I am a petite woman with very large breasts. I also find these problems when shopping and after many years have figured out what can work.

First things first, how is your bra situation? One thing women with curves and breasts need more than new clothes are awesome bras. They are worth the money. A good quality bra can last for years if you treat it with care. I find that Wacoal is the best fitting for my shape, and I know Oprah, another feminine-shaped woman likes them too! You want stiff straps if possible, or sturdy elasticized straps. This will help support your breasts throughout the day.

Then, I am all about knits and sweaters. I own only one button-down shirt because they are not forgiving. Knits will curve with you if shaped well, won't get weird over the bust line, and hold up with regular washings. A wrap-style will show that you have a waist - a camisole or tank in the same color underneath will give the chest coverage you desire, but still give the wrap look that is so flattering and a non-barrel look. A wrap sweater with matching ribbed tank and jeans for day, a matte jersey wrap dress with lace-trimmed camisole for dressier occasions, a knit wrap top and matching yoga pants and knit cami for hanging around the house. I like faux wrap tops when you can find them, you don't have to deal with them shifting over the breasts, ensuring proper coverage. As for turtlenecks, they are cozy and classic, but I rarely wear them because they hide my neck, hide my waist and emphasize my chest.

Since you are petite, you want to show your shape a bit more. Petite women can easily look lost in their clothes and larger than they really are. This season is all about tights - a great alternative to jeans is a denim skirt and a pair of dark tights. I throw my tights in the machine with my delicates and hang them to dry. My denim skirt goes with sweaters and sneakers to the grocery store, a tee shirt and flats to the mall, with pumps and a nicer top to work or out with friends. I have two denim tights sold in the grocery - they can compete with department store brands for durability and shape.

A great heel and toe of a shoe can add pizazz to standard clothing. A simple sweater and black pants looks elegant with a cool shoe. Also, even the slightest of heels will add length to your legs to balance out your chest.

Dresses are also a great choice for your size because they can be easily hemmed to your height and show off your legs, creating height. Again, consider a wrap style to show your figure without being too flamboyant. Matte jersey is great - can throw it in the washer, it is sort of stain resistant, transfers from season to season with ease, forgiving to the figure. Dresses are so versatile; they can be worn with strappy heels for evening, with tights and low shoes for day, can have a camisole under for more coverage. Also if you choose matte jersey or another non-shiny synthetic fabric, it can be worn year-round. Many women disregard dresses, saying their life is too casual or complicated for them. Nothing is easier though than a dress - no layering, no coordinating tops with bottoms, easy to hope in an out of a car or SUV, you always look polished even though you just threw it on. Also by showing your legs, be they in hose, tights or bare, shows you are not a barrel, you are a shapely woman.
I wonder if you could weigh in on the subject of pantyhose color - specifically, when is it appropriate to wear nude vs. sheer black? I'm fairly confident of my wardrobe choices otherwise, but for some reason, choosing the right hose for an outfit - day, evening, and special occassion - flusters me. By the way, I work in a business casual environment.
I work in a business casual environment and I never wear anything but bare legs or solid tights. I wear black tights with denim, twill and corduroy skirts, with pumps, Mary Janes and boots. I see coworkers wear tights with gaucho pants, wool and heavy knit dresses and skirts too.

I own nude hose, but they are still in their package. I only wear them for when I meet with conservative clients at work, or have a job interview and wear a skirt. For formal occasions like weddings, I go bare-legged and it is completely appropriate in this day and age. If you feel more comfortable in nude hose, I recommend investing in very high quality, very very sheer hose. The slightly shiny suntan sandalfoot look is very out.

For black hose, I have been seeing it on many runways and magazines. I see it mainly with a color dress and color shoes, like red sheath, red pumps and sheer black hose. Very hard to do if it's not couture though. I would recommend black hose for dressier occasions when dark colors are worn. A black sheath at a wedding with sheer black hose and black heels is nice. A funeral with a black suit and black hose is proper. I too have black hose, but they too are still in their original packaging.

Hose confuses me too. One bad choice and suddenly your cute outfit has become passe. Pantyhose are no longer a necessity, but a fashion accessory to wear when you want. I hope this helped!
I purchased a shirt length dress from forever21. It's plum with cream polka dots. I have no idea what to wear with it. Should i dress it up with a nice pair of pants or dress it down with jeans and if so what color pants should i wear with it and what wash jeans. I was thinking of a pair of skinny jeans with a flat pair of mary janes or ballet flats. HELP!
I usually wear shirt-length dresses with a dark creased bootcut jean and black city boots for a dressy look, in Summer I like with a more vintage look jean and strappy heels. Dependant on the style of the dress, skinny jeans could work. If it's a swing style or kimono style - clean simple lines and little adornment, then skinny could work with flats. If it has ruffles or puffed sleeves or a defined waist or anything like that, I think a slim jean that is not skinny at the ankle would be better to give a clean look and highlight the decoration.

As for pants, that's a tough one. I rarely see dresses with pants that looks like an outfit. But if you think you have the right pair (slim, stretchy, something like the Express Editor pants) then I would say charcoal, and then a black shoe with an elongated toe to make it look sleek and not frumpy. Usually I say be safe and go with jeans.

January 9, 2007

Tuesday’s Tip: What to do When

When You Get a Run in Your Stocking:

  • The Nailpolish Tricks Works. If you are at home or near polish, apply clear or a non-noticeable color. This will freeze the run and you can get by without any more damage.
  • Any product that will stiffen the fabric – I have been stuck at work or away from home and have gotten a run in my hose or tights. I have found that hairspray works decently, and if it is under my skirt, I have even used Wite-Out to control the run.

When Your Favorite Pant’s Lining Rips:

  • To have a pair of trousers glide instead of bump over curves, a lining is a must. Problem is that many pant fabrics have a touch of stretch, while synthetic linings do not. After many sittings, squattings and living in trousers, the lining often tears at the crotch or bum.

As that the lining is smaller than the pants and not stretchy, it is hard to have a tailor repair them without altering the fit of the pants.

If it isn’t noticeable, wear the pants with the torn lining. If the lining starts to hang (imagine polyester chaps under your suit pants), feel free to trim the lining so it does not bunch. I have been known to completely cut the lining out of dark colored trousers and wear them until I can purchase a replacement pair (or if it a suit and not terribly noticeable). I know some who have had a tailor replace the lining, but I find that to often cost almost as much (or if on sale, more!) than a new pair of trousers.

Invest in a full-length mirror and a hand mirror. Place the full-length mirror in a spot that gets lots of natural and artificial light and really check out your rear view. If there is any bunching of fabric, VPL (visible panty lines) or anything else unattractive, do not continue wearing the trousers. It is far better to wear the same trousers three times in one week than wear unflattering clothes.

When You Get Deodorant on Your Clothes:

  • At home: If you have a steamer, fill it with distilled water and apply it to the spot. The deodorant will magically disappear. This is great for very gentle fabrics like silks. If you do not have a steamer, a steamy bathroom removes some subtle deodorant streaks.

A bunched pair of pantyhose (use a light color) will take deodorant off most knits and synthetic pieces. I have also used the foamy gripper part of hanger from the dry cleaners and a black washcloth on black sturdy fabrics

  • Away from home: Often if you rub a garment against itself, the deodorant streak will disappear.

When You Spill on Your Clothes:

  • Invest in a Tide To Go pen! I am famous for spilling on myself. I have carried all types of stain removers, and I have found this to be the very best out there. It has removed wine, olive oil, liquid foundation, pen and much much more. It sometimes may leave a water ring or not completely remove the stain, but it works as a pre-treater and will help have your garment wearable after cleaning.
  • If you do not have a stain remover on you, immediately attempt to blot the area with clear water. Do not rub for you may make the stain worse and damage the fibers. If you have access to liquid dish detergent, apply a bit to an oily stain. I have had dish detergent remove months-old stains on silk knit sweaters and delicate dresses. Bridal salons often use dish detergent mixed with water to remove stains off of sample dresses.

Your Trouser’s Hem Unravels:

  • At home: if you know how to properly hem, go for it! However a straight stitch will not do it. You need to make the hem invisible to keep the pants being quality. If you do not have the sewing skills, invest in having your cleaners or tailor perform the repair for you.
  • Stitch Witchery and other equivalents are terribly popular, but they often change the line of a trouser.This is good for sturdy pieces like chino trousers, but little else. You spend good money on your clothes; to get your money’s worth through the years you need to treat and repair them with care.
  • Away from home: always carry a few safety pins in the change purse portion of your wallet. These can be used at the side seams to temporarily keep your pant from dragging, as well as a multitude of other uses in fashion emergencies. I have been known to use small pieces of duct or electrical tape to hold up the hem, and even with stiff fabrics like tweeds I have stapled inside the side hems (less damage to the fabric, and a staple perpendicular to the hem within the side seam is almost invisible).

You Get a Snag in Your Sweater ;

  • Take a needle or safety pin and from the inside of the garment, pull in the snag. NEVER CUT A SNAG! This could create a large hole or run and ruin the garment. If the snag is very long, try typing a knot in it from the inside and then you can snip the excess.

You’re Famous for Losing Buttons and You Bought Something with Buttons:

  • As soon as you get the garment home, paint all the threads with nailpolish.
  • If it is a coat or a garment that will get much wear and tear on the threads attaching the button, add another layer of thread. You don’t have to be a seamstress to thread a needle, do a couple swipes through the button holes. Swing the thread a few times around the thread between the button and garment to protect the stitching, and then knot on the inside of the garment.
  • Either keep the spare buttons on the garment (if not noticeable – I have all my coat buttons still inside hanging in their packages), or on the package that spare buttons come in, write the brand and description of the garment for reference. I have a jar on my bureau that holds all spare button packets and I dig through it to find the replacement when I have a button loss.
  • When you toss clothes (past the point of donating) remove the buttons and save in case of emergency. I have a few small pearl-white buttons in my change purse, and some horn, wood, shell and clear buttons in my button jar from garments that got torn, paint splattered or otherwise ruined. These often will closely match those on a current garment that has lost a button.

January 4, 2007

Thursday Tip: Starting the New Year off Right

Okay, so I am totally late on this. Forgive me, I was on vacation! However during my week of fun in the lack of sun, I realized I took some beauty and fashion regimens for granted and suffered the penalty. As that most of us do not have time during the week to accomplish tasks, we all (me included!) can begin 2007 with a weekend of cleaning and beautifying!

1. Give Yourself a Facial.

When I was attempting to pop a second blackhead at my jawline, I realized I have been treating my skin terribly. Late nights of work make me too exhausted to wash my face before bed time. The face wash is in the medicine cabinet and I am sopping wet in the shower so I’ll use the bar soap to scrub off my mascara. I ran out of eye cream in October and decided to hold off to see if I got any beauty gift cards for Christmas (and I did not). Add to that a few too many glasses of wine, cups of eggnog and flutes of champagne to wash down fatty finger food, chocolate goodies and ginormous holiday feasts and too much time on my bum….. well my skin has suffered.

One evening, wash your face with a gentle facial cleaner. If it exfoliates, great. If not, follow with a scrub. Since this is not a regular occurrence, your scrub can be a bit more abrasive. Do not use any scrub unless it is made specifically for the skin of the face. I use either Dove’s Gentle Exfoliating Daily Cleanser, or Purpose Gentle Cleansing Wash with the (now discontinued but I stocked up) Body Shop Soy and Calendula Face Scrub.

After this, apply a mask appropriate for your skin type. I like either The Body Shop’s Oceanic Clay Mask or Olay Facials Deep Cleansing Clay Mask. After it is complete, remove it completely with cool water.

Now fill your sink with steaming hot water, bend over it and throw a towel over your head, holding in the steam. Do not let the water hit your face – you do not want to scald your skin. Hang out for a few minutes – I bring in a stool to the bathroom, have a seat and close my eyes and meditate. Some like to add a few drops of essential oil. I do not for my skin can be sensitive and many oils can be caustic to the face.

When you have had enough, drain the sink, and dab your skin with an alcohol-free toner to hydrate and soothe the skin. I like the Vitamin E Face Spritz from the Body Shop – I spray it straight on the skin and dab off with a cotton ball. I also use this product on planes – the bottle is small enough to take in your carry-on and it keeps your skin hydrated throughout the flight without mussing your makeup.

Then continue with your regular night creams and supplements. I use the Vitamin C Intensive Night Repair from the Body Shop, and over it use Olay Regenerist Night Recovery Moisturizing Treatment and Kinetin Eye Cream from The Body Shop. The next morning you will be AMAZED at how good your skin looks and feels after a deep cleaning and pampering experience. It will make you want to continue good skin deeds the rest of the year!

2. Organize your Closet
I was packing for my holiday and couldn’t find a blasted thing. Where is my black velvet blazer? How about my blue fleece? My strappy silver heels? These are all things I do not wear on a regular occasion but needed at this very moment. I could find suits in two sizes too small, found my high school prom dress and found a sorority sweatshirt with big “billboard” letters but ended up tearing my entire closet contents out and onto my bed to find what I NEEDED. I realized it was time to do some organizing.

I tossed all the flimsy metal hangers from the cleaners. I tossed any plastic bags still left on cleaned clothes. I made sure everything was on appropriate hangers (suit jackets on sturdy hangers, sleeveless tops on hangers with the nook to hold the top in place, wide-necked tops on hangers with grippers). I then categorized:

  • Clothes I rarely wear but need to be hung to not get ruined
  • Going-out tops
  • Work tops
  • Jackets and blazers
  • Suits
  • Skirts
  • Pants
  • Dresses for special occasions
  • Dresses for work and everyday
Everything else was folded and placed on closet shelves or in drawers. The special occasion and rarely worn pieces got the space in the back of the closet, the most worn items given top real estate. To conserve space, I “monkey-hung” similar pieces. This is where you take a hanger with a swiveling neck and hook one hanger into the other hanger so they tier down. I monkey hung suit pants, and then outing pants. Going out tops were tired upon one another, and even blazers and short dresses got the same treatment. Pants were hung upside down by their cuffs, seam-to-seam to keep nice crisp creases in the leg.

When I wear something, I leave the hanger so I know where it goes when it returns to the closet. This means I don’t end up losing hangers and doubling up items or shoving delicate pieces into a drawer. A nice thing was when holiday shopping at R.E.I. I saw they were giving away nice plastic hangers with grips and swiveling metal necks right at the door. I took home a dozen and replaced all the crappy metal and sloping solid plastic ones I have been holding on to for years. Why pay lots of money? Next time you buy clothing, ask for the hanger. And when you go to shops that have designer hangers (Arden B, Ann Taylor, REI, etc.) they may give you a few for free. Doesn’t hurt to ask!

As for bags and accessories, I went through them. The stuff I haven’t touched in years and wasn’t in good condition I donated. I placed bags and boots in old pillowcases to protect them from dust and rearranged my shelves and storage bag (I have one of those canvas bags that hang on the closet bar and has canvas drawers in it. I store scarves, bathing suits, small bags and belts in it) putting the most used pieces in the places most easily reached.

Anything that was in need of repair or cleaning was removed from the closet and tossed immediately into a large bag to take to the cleaner/tailor/shoe repair person near my job. Nothing is worse than pulling out an item to wear to find there is a hole or a missing button.

3. Go Through Your Makeup

When was the last time you bought a new mascara? Why are you holding onto that sparkly purple lipstick? How dusty and dirty is that drawer/bag/box that is holding your cosmetics? I have a makeup case – the professional style bought at a ridiculously low price at a Nordstrom Half-Yearly sale. Though I have little compartments in it for shadows, glosses, pots and potions, somehow weird stuff collects in there. I removed all the hair elastics and bobby pins, the earring backs and the plastic wrapping from new products that were tossed in the bottom in haste. I then removed all the makeup and wiped down all the areas with a damp cloth, getting rid of the shadow and pencil sharpening dust. When I put the makeup back, I kept it organized, with the most used products in front and center. As I replaced pencils, I re-sharpened them. Lipsticks I checked their consistency and tossed those that were old, separating or downright ugly. I usually finish a foundation, concealer or powder before it goes bad, but if you have pots and bottles of this type of stuff that you had at this same time last year, it is time to toss them. Mascaras should only be kept for 3-5 months so maybe this is the time to get a new tube. This gave me a chance to try the Cover Girl Lash Exact mascara that people have been raving about!

And really, why are you holding on to so much random stuff? If you always wear the same colors of eyeshadow, what’s the point of holding on to the crazy colors? For a random Halloween costume or that dress that NEEDS electric green eyeliner? I went through all the weird colors, glitters and spangles and decided that if it hadn’t been worn in the past year, it didn’t deserve real estate. Yes, even I, a fan of crazy shadow colors tossed a sparkly pink and a creamy emerald. I hadn’t worn them since I wore pleather pants and well…. That was a terribly long time ago.

Now on to your brushes. Did you know that you should be washing them every week at a minimum? Take all of them, wash them individually with a bit of baby shampoo, and lay them on their side on a towel to dry (should be ready to use by the next day). You will be amazed at how much better your makeup goes on with fresh brushes! I couldn’t believe how much pigment was stored in my eyebrow brush alone. If you wash and maintain your brushes, they will be a good friend to you for years.

These three January resolutions will get you on track to having an organized and beautiful 2007. The best way to be fabulous while being frugal is to care for what you already own. Treat your face, your skin, your beauty products and clothes with care, and they will care for you for a long time!

January 3, 2007

Disclaimer

  1. I never claim to be an expert. I am a normal woman with a normal job and live in a normal suburb outside a major city. I have over a decade of experience in retail sales, management, merchandising and personal shopping and eons of experience trying to dress my body, be it a size 4 or a size 14 while living within my means. I have made fashion and beauty mistakes. I am after all, human.
  2. What I write is not gospel, it is personal opinion. If you do not like what I have to say, that’s fine with me. If we all thought the same, life would be a pretty boring place. I however ask that if you choose to post your personal opinion in the Comments, you write with thought, consideration and maturity. Any comments attacking me as a person or attacking any other comments or people will be deleted.
  3. I do not link back to other blogs on here. If your blog is in the same vein as my other blog, I may be willing to do a link back there. Email me about it. If you attempt to advertise your company, your product, your blog or website within my comments, you will be deleted. That is tacky and poor blogging etiquette.
  4. I am not on here on a daily basis. If you wish to have personal questions answered, you would be best to email me directly. I answer every polite email I receive. You can reach me at the email link on the lefhand sidebar.
  5. I am happy to review brands, services, spas and products on here. Email me at the address above, but do realize that I will be completely honest with my opinion!
  6. I have tried, but my new schedule does not give me the time to do personal shopping for anyone. Feel free to email me a specific question or ask for opinion, but I cannot pick out your entire Spring wardrobe and what stores to visit. I do promise to answer to the best of my ability, but do not have the time for makeover projects at this time (though that would be so much more fun than the daily 9-5 grind! Maybe someday!).
  7. I am not trying to be a fashionista. I am trying to be a stylish woman in America. I believe all women can be stylish, and it doesn’t require a bunch of time, money or creativity. Whether we like it or not, we are judged by our appearance. I believe that looking good does not mean we are selfish, materialist or shallow, but that we care about ourselves and appreciate ourselves. If you wish to wear clothes that do not make you happy, and choose not to care about your hair or skin, that’s okay. I respect that and you. I respect those who have opinions different from mine, and I hope you will give me the same respect. I would not try to convert you to my religion, or change your political view, and I will not try to force anyone to agree with my opinion about personal appearance. Just know you cannot sway me either. I have been poor, been well off, and have been in between. I have been fat, been thin, been a slave to fashion, and a non-conformist. My clothes have come from Neiman Marcus and the Salvation Army. I encourage women to care for their looks because we often forget about ourselves in an attempt to be a Super Woman – best mother, employee, wife and neighbor. When we give some time to ourselves, we usually perform better at other tasks. If you feel you perform just fine and are totally happy right now in how you look, congratulations. This site is not for you. Best wishes. However if you are like me and realize sometimes you put everyone and everything first and lose sight of the fact that you cannot care for others if you do not care for yourself first, I hope to offer a few nuggets of inspiration, wisdom and cheer!